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Chitral
The Chitral valley at an elevation of 1127.76 metres (3,700 feet) is favourite with mountaineers, anglers, hunters, hikers, naturalists and anthropologists.
The 7787.64 metres (25,550 feet) Trichmir, the highest peak of
the Hindu Kush mountain dominates this 321.87 kms (200 miles)
long exotic valley.
Chitral district has Afghanistan on its north, south and west. A narrow strip of Afghan territory, Wakhan separates it from the Soviet Union. The tourist season in Chitral is from June to September.
Kafir-Kalash Tribe
One of the major attractions of Chitral are the Kalash valleys - the home of the Kafir-Kalash or 'Wearers of the Black Robe', a primitive pagan tribe. Their ancestry is shrouded in mystery. A legend has it that some soldiers of the legions of Alexander of Macedonia settled down in Chitral and the preset Kafir-Kalash ar their off-springs.
The 3,000
strong Kafir-Kalash live in the valleys of Birir, Bumburet and
Rambur in the south. Bumburet, the largest and the most
picturesque valley of the Kafir-Kalash, is 40 kms (25 miles) from
Chitral and is connected by a jeepable road. Birir, 34 kms (21
miles) away, is accessible by a jeepable road. Rambur is 32 kms
(20 miles) from Chitral. the road is jeepable upto Ayun and the
remaining 16 kms (10 miles) have to be travelled on foot.
The Kalash women wear black gowns of coarse cloth in summer and hand-spun wool dyed in black in winter. Their picturesque headgear is made of woollen black material studded with cowrie shells, buttons and crowned with a large coloured feather. The Kalash are gay people and love music and dancing particularly on occasions of their religious festivals like Joshi Chilimjusht (14th & 15th May - Spring), Phool (20th-25th September) and Chowas (18th to 21st December). Foreign tourists require special permits to visit the Kalash valleys. Permits are issued free of cost by the Deputy Commissioner , Chitral.
Garam Chashma (Hot Springs)
Elevation: 1859 metres (6,100 feet). Distance: 45 km (28 miles) north-west of Chitral. By jeep 3 hours. This unspoiled enchanting valley of orchards, verdant fields and snow clad peaks is renowned for its boiling sulphur springs which are famous for healing effect on skin diseases, gout, rheumatism and chronic headaches. For the convenience of tourists "humams" (baths) have been constructed near the springs. Foreign tourists are requested to pay a toll tax of Rs. 5.00 per person.
Birmoghalasht
elevation: 2743 metres (9,900 feet). distance: 15 km (9 miles). Worth visiting is the fairy-tale summer palace of the ex-ruler perched at a height of 2743 metres (9,000 feet). It offers awe-inspiring views of Trichmir and panoramic vistas of valleys below. The fort is approachable on foot only.
History of Polo
Polo is an equestrian sport with its origin embedded in Central Asia dating as far back as sixth century BC. At first it was training game for Cavalry Units for the King's guards or other elite troops. To the warlike tribesmen who played polo with as many as 100 players to a side it was a miniature battle.
Polo became a Persian
national sport played extensively by men as well as women in the
sixth century AD. Usually played in front of royal palaces,
marble goal posts still stand in frount of the palace in Teheran.
From Persia the game spread to Arabia, then to Tibet, China and
Japan. In China, in the year 910, the death of a favourite
relative in a game prompted Emperor A-PAO-CHI to order the
beheading of all players.
In the sub-continent polo was introduced by the Muslim conquerors in the thirteenth century. the English work Polo is the Balti word meaning 'Ball'.
There are four players
to a side but this is by no means a rule in local polo games. In
the past there was no limit to the number of players on each side
and no time-limit either. Whichever team scored nine goals first
was the winner in all official tournaments. The present game with
a team of six players in a side lasts one hour with a ten-minute
break.
Gilgit, Chitral and Baltistan have always played the game of polo closest to its original form. In the past the local Rajas, Mirs and Mehtars were the patrons of the game. At times more than 50% of the annual budget of their principalities would be spent on supporting the game of polo.
The first time a polo tournament took place at the Shandur Top was in 1936. A British Political Agent, Major Cobb, who was fond of playing polo under a full moon had the polo ground near Shandur named 'Moony Polo Ground'.
Calendar of Polo
Tournaments
1. Nauroze Polo Tournament, Gilgit (1-7
November every year)
2. Shandur Polo Tolurnament (second week of July) every year)
3. Chitral Polo Tournament (...?...)
4. Skarud and Khaplu Polo tournament (5-10 September every year)
Shandur Polo Tournament
The most exciting polo tournament of the entire Northern Areas is played on top of the Shandur Pass, almost 4000 metres above sea level, a place unique and exotic in itself surrounded by some of the most specular mountain scenery in the world. the event marks the annual rivalry between the polo teams of Gilgit and Chitral.
The Shandur Polo Tournament also has some added attractions for the visitors. These include a Golf tournament at the Shandur Golf ground, also reputedly the highest golf ground in the world; a trout fishing competition as the neighbouring streams and takes abound with trout; other equestrian events and a festival of folk dances of the Northern Areas. The Shandur Polo Tournament offers much more than an ordinary festival stretching over five days and four nights.
The highlight of all festivals of course remains the final match between the Gilgit and Chitral polo teams. Polo is played here in its original state with a minimum of rules and provides a most colourful spectacle. Supporters of both sides travel long distances from the remote parts of Chitral and Gilgit areas in order to be present at the thrilling Shandur Polo Tournament. The event, as such, provides a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of the ordinary people of these regions. Their culture and indigenous customs are a delight to behold for the visitors.
Shandur offers crystal clear lakes, snow covered mountains and alpine flowers amidst vast stretches of green grass. A tourist village comprising tents and restaurant springs up during the tournament. Merchants from Chitral and Gilgit set up Souvenir and Folkcraft shops. The tournament offers visitors an opportunity to mix with the locals of these areas.
How to reach Shandur Polo
The Shandur Top lies mid-way between Chitral and Gilgit on an unmetalled road travelling on which a adventurous, to say the least. The distance from either side, Chitral or Gilgit, to the Shandur Pass is approximately 168 km (105 miles).
Getting to Chitral or Gilgit is possible by air on PIA Foker operated flights from Peshawar and Islamabad. There are daily flights but are subject to weather and tourists planning togo by air must make allowance of at least a couple of days in their itineraries just in case the weather does not permit flights to operate.
Access to Chitral by Road
Access to Chitral by road is either from Peshawar or from Islamabad. Both these routes join up in Swat from where you proceed via Dir over the 3200 metre high Lowari Pass and on to Chitral. Jeep can be hired both at Chitral and Gilgit to finally end up at the Shandur Top. Whether you decide to go through Chitral or through Gilgit you will encounter superb mountain scenery complete with crystal clear waters of Northern Area rivers. From the Chitral side it is certainly worthwhile for travellers to stop at Mastuj for the night. From Gilgit side travellers can stop for the right at Gupis.
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